Adam Pruckner, a Brunswick local and ex-Code black chef, has struck out on his own to open up his own place. Small Axe is co-owned with Jas Singh, and partner Kirstyn Tate.

Previously a furniture store, there’s now an espresso bar, a courtyard on the side, and an open-air dining room towards the back. It’s homely inside the long and narrow building, much bigger than expected. Coffee is by Code Black of course.

Adam’s inspiration for Small Axe’s menu is largely based on his mother’s Sicilian roots. A light fruity option is the citrus salad with pine nuts, pomegranate, candied rosemary, spiced sugar syrup and spelt pudding. Not something you’d order if you wanted anything substantial to eat, but refreshing all the same.

Smoked eggplant with almond hummus, tahini mayo, mint, and pomegranate presents another vegetarian option, or for something heartier, there are the Sicilian meat balls, with slow cooked egg, pecorino and organic toast.

My pick is the Breakfast Pasta. Maccaruni is paired with a heady combination of flavoursome guanciale, an Italian cured pork, and salted ricotta. Peas and mint provide colour and freshness. The slow cooked egg dribbles its yolk all over the place to make this a breakfast experience worth repeating.

Small Axe is a place I would love to revisit to try more of their Sicilian brunch options. If only I lived closer.

Small Axe Kitchen
281 Victoria St
Brunswick, VIC, 3056
(03) 9939 6061
www.smallaxekitchen.com