07 Feb Messer, Fitzroy
Since opening last year, Messer has since transitioned from pan-Euro restaurant to a Berlin diner. It’s the second venue from Copper Pot’s Ashley Davis, and it’s he’s hoping to bring something a little different from what we might expect from such a menu.
One of the items that survived the change is the Smoked Trout ‘Sandwich’ with trout roe. You’ll receive thin and crisp shards of trout skin sandwiching some beautifully smokey trout, and we’re glad it’s still on the menu. I’m not particularly fond of sausages, but the Berlin-style Duck Currywurst turns out to be one of our favourites of the day. The house-made sausage is accompanied by curry paste and crisp strands of potato. Tasty indeed.
School Prawns North Sea Style are piled into lettuce cups and come with a decent amount of aioli to round out the flavours and mouthfeel. Flammkuchen is another dish that has stayed on from the previous menu. Today, our wood-fired flatbread has crème fraîche, potato, leek and speck. It’s a great snack to share, though a little more speck would have added some extra oomph.
Veal schnitzel is coated in a crunchy pretzel crumb, and has a zingy potato and mustard salad on the side. We also enjoy the warm and comforting bowl of Käsespätzle, kale, aged gruyere and shallots. The gruyere creates pleasing cheesy strings that stretch downwards from our spoons, and it’s been added in restrained fashion that avoids the dish from being too rich and heavy.
The Apple ‘Strudel’ is a surprise. Essentially a deconstructed version of the dessert, it’s comprised of golden raisins, crumble, crushed filo pastry, freeze-dried apple, fresh granny smith, and a refreshing burnt butter ice cream. This modern take turns the traditionally warm and wintery dish into the perfect summer sweet.
Changes in concept are not always handled well, but Messer’s more focussed menu is a crowd-pleaser.
Disclaimer: I was invited to Messer as a guest, however, opinions expressed here are purely my own, and are based on my experience at the time.
1/166 Gertrude St
Fitzroy, VIC, 3065
(03) 9419 0035