22 Feb Lover, Windsor
Chef Paul Turner (Two Wrongs, Donovans, Church Street Enoteca, Cutler & Co, Steer) has found a new home at Windsor’s latest late night kitchen and bar, Lover. It’s quite a drastic change for the building, which previously housed the light and bright Uncommon cafe. Will Turner, one of the cafe’s co-owners, has completely transformed it into a place that’s dark, cosy and full of character to service the other end of the day.
The food menu is casual, yet refined. A popular starter is the Pretzel. Filled with wagyu, pickles and cheddar cheese, it’s crisp and packed full of flavour. Highly recommended. Also delicious is the Burrata, heirloom tomatoes and basil. The bit of sweetness from the biscuit-like almond crumb complements the creamy burrata nicely. The Hot Hot Pork Crackers with herb cream and saltbush are a salt and vinegar-like crunch sensation that later becomes a bit tacky in the mouth.
We’ve already experienced quite a few good small plates, but my favourite of the night is the Kingfish Crudo with cucumber, yuzu, charred avocado and beach bananas. The dish displays a great variety of flavours and textures, from the thin and crispy fish skin, to the beach bananas that come with a burst of salt and moisture.
Tender and flakey John Dory is doused with rich brown butter, lettuce, cuttlefish, nori and smooth and creamy mash. The Smoked Duck Breast creates an interplay of sweet, sour and smokey in the mouth with its beetroot, raspberry, blood plum.
Conclude the evening with the light and refreshing Strawberry and Rose Parfait with basil and meringue, yoghurt, or the richer option of Banana, cocoa, rice bubbles, yuzu and salted caramel, complete with milk chocolate art.
Lover’s polished menu and great cocktails makes it a worthy addition to Chapel Street.
Disclaimer: I was invited to Lover as a guest, however, opinions expressed here are purely my own, and are based on my experience at the time
60 Chapel St
Windsor, VIC, 3181
(03) 9510 6655