Igni is an unassuming performer. It’s all too easy to walk right past the nondescript entrance without realising what’s inside. The restaurant is small, pared back, and relatively casual for fine dining. It seats about 30, and diners are treated to the spectacle of the open kitchen: the smell of cooking butter, the sight of flames coming up during service, the sizzles and crackles from the wood-fire grill. ...

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