01 Nov Citrico, Fitzroy North
Not too long ago, a new Chilean and South American bar and restaurant opened up in Fitzroy North. It’s a warm and friendly environment to spend time in, whether it’s for a tipple or a meal.
Their drinks menu has a section dedicated to pisco-based cocktails that really pack a punch. The Sandicoco is refreshing, whilst the Dulce Delicioso is a strong, smooth and rich espresso martini-like drink.
Citrico proves vegetarian doesn’t have to be boring. The Pastel de Choclo is a terrine of corn and eggplant with humita sauce, watercress and a thin and crisp charred topping of provolone cheese. It’s more sweet than savoury, but not overly so.
You can’t visit South America without having a taste of ceviche, and the Amazonian Ceviche is another interesting vegetarian option. There’s a variety of crunchy and tender textures, and many of the vegetables have been charred. The palm hearts have really soaked up the snow leopard milk, creating bursts of acidity in the mouth. The Ceviche Clasico is cured in lime juice and comes with sweet potato with tiger milk. It’s peppery and nutty, and the fish is tender. Having the chulpi alongside the fish adds a nice element of crunch.
The plump, grilled scallops of the Conchitas are charred and glistening. The lomo saltada sauce is tart, but is rounded off slightly by the pisco-yellow chilli butter. Tira de Asado en Seco consists of O’Connor’s short rib, coriander seco sauce and white Lima beans. The texture of the dish overall is luxurious – the puree is incredibly smooth, and the beef melts in the mouth. The vegetable garnishes serve to balance the dish with a little bit of bite.
Citrico’s desserts don’t disappoint. The Alfajores are incredibly short and crumbly, and the dulce de leche is not super sweet. The Picarones are something a little different. They’re sweet potato and pumpkin doughnuts that come with fig sugar syrup and a dish dark chocolate on the side. The picarones are slightly crisp on the outside, but have a slight chew to them. The syrup is not as saccharine as it might appear, and gets soaked up beautifully by the doughnuts.
Citrico is a wonderful addition to Queens Parade, and one of my favourite new openings for this year.
Disclaimer: I was invited to Citrico as a guest, however, opinions expressed here are purely my own, and are based on my experience at the time.
376 Queens Parade
Fitzroy North, VIC, 3068
(03) 9482 1482