20 Sep Atta, Albert Park
Atta is the latest of a new spate of modern Indian eateries, where traditional dishes are infused with new flavours and ingredients. Hoping to showcase their take on contemporary Indian is restaurateur Harry Dhanjal, and self-taught head chef Brij Patel.
Murgh Tikka (chicken tikka) sees spicy, juicy tandoori chicken seated atop a spinach tikki, flavoured with mint chutney and coriander infused oil. The Sikandari Raan is one of their signature dishes. It’s presented with flair, hidden underneath a cloche. The smoke clears and reveals pieces of braised lamb with sous-vide Dutch carrots. The sauce has richness and depth of flavour, lightened up by the mint chutney and herb potatoes.
The curries we taste tonight don’t sit high on the heat scale. Murgh Makhani (Butter Chicken) is rich and tangy, and has a bit of honey-like sweetness to it. Dal Bukhara sees buttery black lentils slow-cooked with coriander butter over 18 hours. Beef Mircha with tempered mustard and sun dried chilli, onion and tomato is soft and tender, and the Lamb do Piazza, a curry with diced lamb, vegetables, onion and tomato, is milder on the spice than the beef.
For sweets we try the Ras Malai – cottage cheese dumplings with saffron and pistachio chhana, and freeze dried raspberries. They’re chewy, with a bit of texture. For something a bit more familiar, there’s the smooth and firm Saffron Panna Cotta with blackberry coulis and sweet saffron honey gels.
Atta aims to add a level of sophistication to the Indian scene in Melbourne to bring it up to fine-dining standards, and you can find it just a short stroll away from the beach.
Disclaimer: I was invited to Atta as a guest, however, opinions expressed here are purely my own, and are based on my experience at the time
159 -161 Victoria Avenue
Albert Park, VIC, 3206
(03) 9696 3388